Various Topics on Chrysler

.... ..tn..

afx wrote:

> ...The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar
> so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be
> a vent.

Say what!!??

> I think she might have had low coolant levels making more hot
> air/steam vent out melting the plastic peice.
>
>
> am I correct here?

Melt - no. (1) Fracture from pressure and heat, or (2) A weak part to
begine with, or (3) A combination of (1) and (2) are the possibilities.

You said this was a replacement radiator. Perhaps it is cheap - the
plastic end tanks may be of inferior materials and/or ultra thin (think:
Chinese).

Also consider that, since apparently 2 radiators have failed in this
car, something is causing/allowing this engine to overheat/overpressure,
either gradually or in spikes. Correct pressure cap?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

..x

On Aug 17, 9:23 pm, Bill Putney <b...@kinez.net> wrote:
> afx wrote:
> > ...The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar
> > so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be
> > a vent.
>
> Say what!!??
>
> > I think she might have had low coolant levels making more hot
> > air/steam vent out melting the plastic peice.
>
> > am I correct here?
>
> Melt - no. (1) Fracture from pressure and heat, or (2) A weak part to
> begine with, or (3) A combination of (1) and (2) are the possibilities.
>
> You said this was a replacement radiator. Perhaps it is cheap - the
> plastic end tanks may be of inferior materials and/or ultra thin (think:
> Chinese).
>
> Also consider that, since apparently 2 radiators have failed in this
> car, something is causing/allowing this engine to overheat/overpressure,
> either gradually or in spikes. Correct pressure cap?
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

So I guess I was wrong....

The first radiator died after about or 8 years of service, this one
seems to be junk now...****.....


Off to buy a new car manana then I guess.

..x

So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole
radiator?

.... ..tn..

afx wrote:
> So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole
> radiator?

Without checking some radiator shops, I'm not sure the end cap is
replaceable - it might be. But these days, even if you find some one to
do it and that has a source of the parts, you don't save that much by
repairing radiators.

You've got the big chunk of the repair bill of R&R'ing the radiator in
either case, and the difference will be the cost of new vs. labor and
parts for the repairs - that could be a wash. And when you finish with
the repaired one, you've still got a used radaitor that is either
inferior quality or was overstressed in its previous life. You have to
ask: Is the *other* end cap weakened? Better replace it too. It's
generally better to replace the whole thing (which is why it's
gegnerally hard to find shops around that will still do the refurb work.

If it was me, I'd replace the radiator (with one with a lifetime
warranty) and thermostst and then have the rest of the cooling system
(fan operation, pressure bottle and cap, pump, hoses, other possible
sources of leaks) thoroughly checked out.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

.... ..tn..

Bill Putney wrote:

> afx wrote:
>
>> So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole
>> radiator?
>
>
> Without checking some radiator shops, I'm not sure the end cap is
> replaceable - it might be. But these days, even if you find some one to
> do it and that has a source of the parts, you don't save that much by
> repairing radiators.
>
> You've got the big chunk of the repair bill of R&R'ing the radiator in
> either case, and the difference will be the cost of new vs. labor and
> parts for the repairs - that could be a wash. And when you finish with
> the repaired one, you've still got a used radaitor that is either
> inferior quality or was overstressed in its previous life. You have to
> ask: Is the *other* end cap weakened? Better replace it too. It's
> generally better to replace the whole thing (which is why it's
> gegnerally hard to find shops around that will still do the refurb work.
>
> If it was me, I'd replace the radiator (with one with a lifetime
> warranty) and thermostst and then have the rest of the cooling system
> (fan operation, pressure bottle and cap, pump, hoses, other possible
> sources of leaks) thoroughly checked out.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

ALSO - how many miles on it, and have you ever replaced the timing belt
and water pump? If not and it has over 105k miles on it, you're running
on borrowed time. That absolutely needs to be done on schedule. And
that would take care of wondering if the water pump is bad in your post
repair ***essment of the cooling system.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

..x

On Aug 18, 6:12 am, Bill Putney <b...@kinez.net> wrote:
> Bill Putney wrote:
> > afx wrote:
>
> >> So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole
> >> radiator?
>
> > Without checking some radiator shops, I'm not sure the end cap is
> > replaceable - it might be. But these days, even if you find some one to
> > do it and that has a source of the parts, you don't save that much by
> > repairing radiators.
>
> > You've got the big chunk of the repair bill of R&R'ing the radiator in
> > either case, and the difference will be the cost of new vs. labor and
> > parts for the repairs - that could be a wash. And when you finish with
> > the repaired one, you've still got a used radaitor that is either
> > inferior quality or was overstressed in its previous life. You have to
> > ask: Is the *other* end cap weakened? Better replace it too. It's
> > generally better to replace the whole thing (which is why it's
> > gegnerally hard to find shops around that will still do the refurb work.
>
> > If it was me, I'd replace the radiator (with one with a lifetime
> > warranty) and thermostst and then have the rest of the cooling system
> > (fan operation, pressure bottle and cap, pump, hoses, other possible
> > sources of leaks) thoroughly checked out.
>
> > Bill Putney
> > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> > address with the letter 'x')
>
> ALSO - how many miles on it, and have you ever replaced the timing belt
> and water pump? If not and it has over 105k miles on it, you're running
> on borrowed time. That absolutely needs to be done on schedule. And
> that would take care of wondering if the water pump is bad in your post
> repair ***essment of the cooling system.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -




Thats the reason I think im NOT goign to fix it, Im graduating from
college in 3 months and will be buying a new car then. This car has
160,000 miles on it and has been a hellova car to us with few major
problems. I replaced the radiator at about 130k I think. Im just not
privy to sinking another 5-600 into this car


Thanks for the help!

.... ..

"afx" <331729@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1187402574.247009.269590@g4g2000hsf.googlegro ups.com...
> One more question,
>
>
> Is this not just a part I can repair, flush the coolant system then
> refil it? The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar
> so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be
> a vent. I think she might have had low coolant levels making more hot
> air/steam vent out melting the plastic peice.
>
>
> am I correct here?
>

I've repaired a plastic radiator. I was in an accident and it shattered a
piece. I was almost 1000 miles from home, and just needed 'something'
to get out of there, so I took two bodywashers and managed to get one
'inside' where the break was and drilled a hole to use a bolt to 'pinch'
the tub. I smeared a lot of epoxy all over the place.

It was a hack repair. It got me a few hundred miles, but not home. However
it broke at a DIFFERENT spot, not where I repaired it, so maybe the
repair would have held forever, who knows.

..x

On Aug 18, 2:10 pm, "Mike Y" <j...@user.com> wrote:
> "afx" <331...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1187402574.247009.269590@g4g2000hsf.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > One more question,
>
> > Is this not just a part I can repair, flush the coolant system then
> > refil it? The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar
> > so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be
> > a vent. I think she might have had low coolant levels making more hot
> > air/steam vent out melting the plastic peice.
>
> > am I correct here?
>
> I've repaired a plastic radiator. I was in an accident and it shattered a
> piece. I was almost 1000 miles from home, and just needed 'something'
> to get out of there, so I took two bodywashers and managed to get one
> 'inside' where the break was and drilled a hole to use a bolt to 'pinch'
> the tub. I smeared a lot of epoxy all over the place.
>
> It was a hack repair. It got me a few hundred miles, but not home. However
> it broke at a DIFFERENT spot, not where I repaired it, so maybe the
> repair would have held forever, who knows.




What exactly does this plastic piece do?