Various Topics on Mitsubishi

..tsiR..

I have a 1993 RVR.
A couple of months ago it developed a noisy tapid, as they say a noisy
tapid is a happy tapid.
However soon after it developed another knocking niose in the motor which
does seem to be lower down in the motor.
No one seems to know what it is.
This second noise only happens when the motor is started first thing in
the morning also the tapid only rattles or worse when it is first started.
The tapid will sometimes get a little noisy when the motor is hot but not
often.
Has anyone else had any of these problems with their RVR's?
It not easy to explain the noise but does sound like a man in the motor
with a little hammer happily tapping away.
We are trying to work out if the second noise is related to the tapid or
if there is something else seriously wrong.
It does not burn any oil it does not smoke. It runs really well so what
ever it is does not seem to be causing any problems.
Have had a quote to have the tapids replaced and have to wonder if it's
really worth doing but then there is no garentee that fixing the tapid
will fix the other tapping noise.
Would appriciate any help.
Sue
New Zealand

..ewa.. ..B..

"MitsiRVR" <sueg-97@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:a209262e723d2dac382afc629c5b7530@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> I have a 1993 RVR.
> A couple of months ago it developed a noisy tapid, as they say a noisy
> tapid is a happy tapid.
> However soon after it developed another knocking niose in the motor which
> does seem to be lower down in the motor.

OK, its a tappet, not tapid.

The noise depends on the engine you have. Look on the center firewall ID
plate for the engine type. Its either 4G93 (1.8L 16 valve) or 4G64 (2.4L)

If its the 4G64 and has the spark plugs on the front side of the head, its
an 8 valve engine with jet valves (useless damm things). If the plugs are in
the top of the head, its the better 16 valve engine. Jet valves have a habit
of sticking, and sometimes burning or jamming. I had one that jammed, broke
the tappet arm and dropped the valve into the cylinder at 3000 rpm. Not good
....

Have a mechanic adjust the tappets and see what happens.

In either engine, the lower noise is often a failed bearing. If you can
slowly raise the revs until the tapping stops, and the tapping starts when
you rev the engine a bit more, its a big end bearing, and you rebuild or
replace the engine.

A competent mechanic should be able to sort this out.

Stewart DIBBS

..tsiR..

Hi Stewart
Many thanks for the reply and the correction on spelling. Should not do
emails late at night.
Don't like the sound of the tappet dropping. The rattle does sound as if
it's getting worse.
Our RVR motor is the 2.4L.
Re the lower noise.
It will only do it fisrt thing in the morning when I first start the car.
I can drive a few K's stop leave the car sitting all day then start it up
and it won't make the noise again.
If it was a big end bearing would it not be making a noise all the time?
Someone suggested that it could be the silent drive shaft which has a
belt, you can remove the belt to disconnect the silent shaft. Have you
heard of this?
My RVR by the way is a permanent 4X4.
When I first start the car the tapping starts and as you say slowly rev it
and the noise will start again however once it's hot it's fine.
The other strange thing with it is it won't do it every time.
For instance I started the car the last two mornings no noise even the
tappet was quiet.
However when I started it last Sunday morning the tappet rattle and the
other noise were there.
You have helped to confirm my fears that it is a serious problem.
have been quoted over $2,000NZ that's without labour to have the motor
replaced and even getting it repaired would cost about the same.
Think I'm better to get shot of it no point in spending good money on
something that could only end up giving more trouble in the future.
However having said that with all the problems that Mitsubishi are having
here in NZ at present I may not be able to give it away.
Many thanks for taking the time to reply.
Regards
Sue
NZ

..ewa.. ..B..

"MitsiRVR" <sueg-97@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:933860284ce188b1fc2fa2a23f0f2565@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Our RVR motor is the 2.4L.
> Re the lower noise.
> It will only do it fisrt thing in the morning when I first start the car.
> I can drive a few K's stop leave the car sitting all day then start it up
> and it won't make the noise again.
> If it was a big end bearing would it not be making a noise all the time?

Yes it would, so its likely NOT a big end.

I have 93 AWD Summit 3 door wagon, effectively the same as your RVR. Two
issues come to mind:

1. Your RVR should have the 16v engine, and it has hydraulic tappets. These
have a habit of getting noisy, and the cure is to replace the noisy
tappet(s). Its not hard, and does not require the dismantling of the engine.
But see below.
2. The lower noise is the problem to diagnose. If you have never changed the
cam and balance shaft belt, its time to look at that area.

This involves
a) taking off the upper and lower engine front covers. This is reasonably
easily done with the engine in the car, so don't let ANYONE tell you
otherwise. You also have to take off the front pulley (4 M8 bolts, NOT the
main crank bolt). These pulleys have a common problem, in that they are in
two parts bonded together with a rubber anti-vibration ring. The two parts
tend to separate after a while, and causes vibration, and often chews up
alternator belts. This may be part of even all of your problem, esspecially
as the noise is intermitttant. Look for misaligned belts or damage to the
lower front cover. I've just replaced the front pulley on the 4G63 DOHC in
my 93 Summit/Lancer coupe: symptom was a rattling or tinkling sound, and
belt squeal. Pulleys can't be repaired.
b) remove the belt tensioner bearings and check for wear or roughness.
Replace if necessary.
c) check the waterpump. If its the original or there's any trace of
roughness, replace it. (In Canada a pump is about $40)
d) install new balance and cam belt.

e) ENSURE THAT THE BELT ALIGNMENT PROCESS AS REQUIRED BY MITSUBISHI is
followed when the belts are installed. Its NOT possible to "mark" the belts
and sprockets and get it right. The crank, balance shaft and oil pump have
to aligned. If it all goes back together and the engine vibrates like mad,
it been done wrong, even if the timing is correct. ***uming you have this
done, ensure that the mechanic knows the correct procedure, and can explain
it to you, because if he gets wrong, he's going to have to do it again, on
his dime.

What does this cost? Here in Canada, it cost me around C$430 including two
belts, two tensioner bearings and a waterpump and about three hours labour.
If you need a front pulley, you may have to get a new one unless you can
find one at a wrecker. In NZ with your low $, perhaps 600 - 700 for the lot
(I'm guessing here).


Stewart DIBBS
www.vysor.com/lancerproject

..r..

Stew, do you or do you know of a do***ented (with pictures) timing belt
replacement. I have purchased a book from the auto parts store. However, the
book does not have enough pictures etc. Anyway do you know of anything
available?

Thx.
"Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@vysor.com> wrote in message
news:40cf9f11$1_3@aeinews....
>
> "MitsiRVR" <sueg-97@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:933860284ce188b1fc2fa2a23f0f2565@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> > Our RVR motor is the 2.4L.
> > Re the lower noise.
> > It will only do it fisrt thing in the morning when I first start the
car.
> > I can drive a few K's stop leave the car sitting all day then start it
up
> > and it won't make the noise again.
> > If it was a big end bearing would it not be making a noise all the time?
>
> Yes it would, so its likely NOT a big end.
>
> I have 93 AWD Summit 3 door wagon, effectively the same as your RVR. Two
> issues come to mind:
>
> 1. Your RVR should have the 16v engine, and it has hydraulic tappets.
These
> have a habit of getting noisy, and the cure is to replace the noisy
> tappet(s). Its not hard, and does not require the dismantling of the
engine.
> But see below.
> 2. The lower noise is the problem to diagnose. If you have never changed
the
> cam and balance shaft belt, its time to look at that area.
>
> This involves
> a) taking off the upper and lower engine front covers. This is reasonably
> easily done with the engine in the car, so don't let ANYONE tell you
> otherwise. You also have to take off the front pulley (4 M8 bolts, NOT the
> main crank bolt). These pulleys have a common problem, in that they are in
> two parts bonded together with a rubber anti-vibration ring. The two parts
> tend to separate after a while, and causes vibration, and often chews up
> alternator belts. This may be part of even all of your problem,
esspecially
> as the noise is intermitttant. Look for misaligned belts or damage to the
> lower front cover. I've just replaced the front pulley on the 4G63 DOHC in
> my 93 Summit/Lancer coupe: symptom was a rattling or tinkling sound, and
> belt squeal. Pulleys can't be repaired.
> b) remove the belt tensioner bearings and check for wear or roughness.
> Replace if necessary.
> c) check the waterpump. If its the original or there's any trace of
> roughness, replace it. (In Canada a pump is about $40)
> d) install new balance and cam belt.
>
> e) ENSURE THAT THE BELT ALIGNMENT PROCESS AS REQUIRED BY MITSUBISHI is
> followed when the belts are installed. Its NOT possible to "mark" the
belts
> and sprockets and get it right. The crank, balance shaft and oil pump have
> to aligned. If it all goes back together and the engine vibrates like mad,
> it been done wrong, even if the timing is correct. ***uming you have this
> done, ensure that the mechanic knows the correct procedure, and can
explain
> it to you, because if he gets wrong, he's going to have to do it again, on
> his dime.
>
> What does this cost? Here in Canada, it cost me around C$430 including two
> belts, two tensioner bearings and a waterpump and about three hours
labour.
> If you need a front pulley, you may have to get a new one unless you can
> find one at a wrecker. In NZ with your low $, perhaps 600 - 700 for the
lot
> (I'm guessing here).
>
>
> Stewart DIBBS
> www.vysor.com/lancerproject
>
>
>

..tsiR..

Hi Stewart,
Many thanks again for replying.
Had the garage check the cam. The outer case has a date stamp on it which
according to them means the cam belt has been changed.
I contacted a local parts importer today to find out the price of another
motor.
$850.00NZ. I was surprised thought it would have been a lot more but then
I have to add labour costs on top of that.
I need to look at which way to go. Spending big bucks on repairs and could
still end up with a motor that could give problems or go for another motor
and get it over and done with.
At present the other motor looks like the best deal.
Depending on a few things such as is it a complete motor or do I need to
rat things off mine.
How compatable is the other motor. It does not take much to have just one
small thing slightly different that could end up costing more money.
Of to the other end of the Island tomorrow so have the weekend to think
about it.
Kind regards
Sue
NZ

..ewa.. ..B..

"MitsiRVR" <sueg-97@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:823c69dfc434892103728d3f47ba9638@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>the price of another motor $850.00NZ.

Have the mechanic check the crank pulleyas I described. If thats ALL it is,
is a really simple job, as the cam belts apparently don't need doing. The
belts and idler bearings should be checked just in case. The pulley is about
$150 I think.

Stewart DIBBS

..ua.. ..rysta..

is the engine a gdi
i have similar problems
cheers Stu

"MitsiRVR" <sueg-97@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:a209262e723d2dac382afc629c5b7530@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> I have a 1993 RVR.
> A couple of months ago it developed a noisy tapid, as they say a noisy
> tapid is a happy tapid.
> However soon after it developed another knocking niose in the motor which
> does seem to be lower down in the motor.
> No one seems to know what it is.
> This second noise only happens when the motor is started first thing in
> the morning also the tapid only rattles or worse when it is first started.
> The tapid will sometimes get a little noisy when the motor is hot but not
> often.
> Has anyone else had any of these problems with their RVR's?
> It not easy to explain the noise but does sound like a man in the motor
> with a little hammer happily tapping away.
> We are trying to work out if the second noise is related to the tapid or
> if there is something else seriously wrong.
> It does not burn any oil it does not smoke. It runs really well so what
> ever it is does not seem to be causing any problems.
> Have had a quote to have the tapids replaced and have to wonder if it's
> really worth doing but then there is no garentee that fixing the tapid
> will fix the other tapping noise.
> Would appriciate any help.
> Sue
> New Zealand
>
>